Domaine Michel Gros
Meet The Winemakers
The Gros are an illustrious, vigneron family on the Côte de Nuits, and Michel is the oldest sibling to Anne, both of whom run their own domaines (with distinct plots), and separately to the family domaine Gros Frère & Soeur. While they all have their own ideas, a common thread is that the Gros wines are full of pleasure and richness which can sometimes distract from the undoubted quality of their vineyard holdings.
Michel was a pioneer of the Hautes-Côtes appellation, a cooler area on the Burgundy plateau which has become more popular and highly regarded over recent, warm vintages. His methods have been noted for their unconventional nature, as he loves to experiment with blending, fractionating and modifying temperature during winemaking and early maturation. Yet tasting his wines there is nothing but dazzling purity, pinpoint freshness and marvellously creamy tannins.
Recently, Michel’s son, Pierre, joined the domaine, starting with the 2019 vintage. He is the seventh generation of the family to make wines, and is already bringing about changes, including a move to more organic practices in the vineyard.
Haut Cotes de Nuit Fontaine Saint Martin Monopole, Michel and his father started reclaiming this over-grown vineyard together in 1976, planting Pinot Noir in the 1980s. Fontaine Saint Martin is a south-east facing slope at over 350m elevation, with soils that match the Pernand marl found on the Hill of Corton some 5km to the south. He has vinified the wine separately since the beginning but first released it as a Monopole in 2014. It tends to be a half point or lower in alcohol than wines from lower elevations, making this a wonderful lunchtime Pinot and excellent to drink soon-ish after release.
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos de Réas Monopole, owned by the Gros family since 1860, and now run exclusively by Michel. It sits on the southern border of Vosne-Romanée with Nuits-St-Georges and is one of the lowest Premier Crus in the village. However, the enclosing wall and the fact that the vineyard is slightly convex in shape with excellent drainage makes it a warmer site than expected. It thus tends to show fabulous fruit intensity, soft acidity and sweet tannins and yet still has a surprising ability to age. The soils are a pinkish-marl rather than limestone, perhaps the source of its noticeable finesse.
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